On my build I used a mark 2.5 2004 VVT donor vehicle, I get a few people contacting me for information on going down this route so I have now detailed my experiance using this model car.
I will try to list everything and try to explain the issue and how I got the solution. There are some issues that involve the information in the manual but I will keep this specific to the mk2.5 donor. I would imagine most of this will apply to using a mk2 donor but you will need to do your own research.
I will try to list everything and try to explain the issue and how I got the solution. There are some issues that involve the information in the manual but I will keep this specific to the mk2.5 donor. I would imagine most of this will apply to using a mk2 donor but you will need to do your own research.
Exhaust
The kit comes with tail pipe, muffler and downpipe to meet with the engine manifold. My manifold was a nice 4-2-1 piece but it went much further back in the car and wasn't close to meeting the Westfield downpipe.
The solution is to get a mk1 manifold, it fits no problem and they are nice and cheap on ebay. You will also need the matching heat shield. The alternative is to have a custom manifold made but at considerably more expense.
The mk2 has two sensors that were in the exhaust, you need these to keep the ecu happy. I fitted one to the downpipe after a collar was welded in and the other lives behind my dash. The important thing is that they read a reduction in gases.
The kit comes with tail pipe, muffler and downpipe to meet with the engine manifold. My manifold was a nice 4-2-1 piece but it went much further back in the car and wasn't close to meeting the Westfield downpipe.
The solution is to get a mk1 manifold, it fits no problem and they are nice and cheap on ebay. You will also need the matching heat shield. The alternative is to have a custom manifold made but at considerably more expense.
The mk2 has two sensors that were in the exhaust, you need these to keep the ecu happy. I fitted one to the downpipe after a collar was welded in and the other lives behind my dash. The important thing is that they read a reduction in gases.
Coolant Hoses
The hose coming from the thermostat cover is at a different angle, this is easily sorted with a replacment pipe, I got mine from ebay and was a perfect fit.
The hose coming from the thermostat cover is at a different angle, this is easily sorted with a replacment pipe, I got mine from ebay and was a perfect fit.
Airbox
The mk2 airbox is a different shape and will not mount into the brackets on the frame, I fixed this by not using the airbox and fitting an aftermarket filter. I don't know if the airbox could be made to fit as I didn't try. I do know that the mk1 airbox is common on ebay so you could take that route.
The mk2 airbox is a different shape and will not mount into the brackets on the frame, I fixed this by not using the airbox and fitting an aftermarket filter. I don't know if the airbox could be made to fit as I didn't try. I do know that the mk1 airbox is common on ebay so you could take that route.
Washer Bottle
The mk2 washer bottle is a completely different shape from the mk1, I bought a replacement part from Car Builder Solutions, it came with the pump and all fittings, the plug is standard and goes straight on.
The mk2 washer bottle is a completely different shape from the mk1, I bought a replacement part from Car Builder Solutions, it came with the pump and all fittings, the plug is standard and goes straight on.
Radiator
The radiator fan in the mk1 has a different mount on the top and the bracket supplied in the kit cannot be used. I fabricated a new bracket very simply out of some aluminium sheet, only took me ten minutes to make the bracket and the radiator is solid.
The radiator fan in the mk1 has a different mount on the top and the bracket supplied in the kit cannot be used. I fabricated a new bracket very simply out of some aluminium sheet, only took me ten minutes to make the bracket and the radiator is solid.
Wiring
First issue with wiring is that a PDF version of the wiring loom does not appear to exist after year 2000 models, you can work most of the issues with trial and error although core systems keep most of the colour coding. Big issue is with the lights, the mk1 pop up light has a single bulb with two filaments, the mk2 has two lights, dip and main. To add to this the mk2 has a switched negative system. The short story is wire the earths where the supply should be to the bulbs and add a relay to the main beam which kills the dip. If you don't you will get both filaments on together and eventually blow the bulb. Sounds more complicated than it is and now you know about the switched negative you are half way there.
First issue with wiring is that a PDF version of the wiring loom does not appear to exist after year 2000 models, you can work most of the issues with trial and error although core systems keep most of the colour coding. Big issue is with the lights, the mk1 pop up light has a single bulb with two filaments, the mk2 has two lights, dip and main. To add to this the mk2 has a switched negative system. The short story is wire the earths where the supply should be to the bulbs and add a relay to the main beam which kills the dip. If you don't you will get both filaments on together and eventually blow the bulb. Sounds more complicated than it is and now you know about the switched negative you are half way there.
Clutch Switch
The ECU is expecting a signal from a switch on the clutch pedal to say the clutch is engaged. Without the clutch switch the rpm can change when you put the car in gear. I will be fitting a new microswitch to fix this, unfortunately I only discovered the problem after the build when access to the pedals is restricted.
The ECU is expecting a signal from a switch on the clutch pedal to say the clutch is engaged. Without the clutch switch the rpm can change when you put the car in gear. I will be fitting a new microswitch to fix this, unfortunately I only discovered the problem after the build when access to the pedals is restricted.
Fuel
The mk1 fuel rail has a return line with a fuel pressure regulator (FPR) attached, by my mk2.5 this had been changed to a non-return system with the FPR in the tank. The mk1 fuel rail did not fit my mk2.5 manifold so I modified the mk2 rail by removing the fuel pulse damping device from the rail and fitting an aftermarket part which gave me the outlet, then with an aftermarket FPR I have created a return system, the intake manifold had capped nozzles that can be used to supply vacuum pressure to the FPR
The mk1 fuel rail has a return line with a fuel pressure regulator (FPR) attached, by my mk2.5 this had been changed to a non-return system with the FPR in the tank. The mk1 fuel rail did not fit my mk2.5 manifold so I modified the mk2 rail by removing the fuel pulse damping device from the rail and fitting an aftermarket part which gave me the outlet, then with an aftermarket FPR I have created a return system, the intake manifold had capped nozzles that can be used to supply vacuum pressure to the FPR
Bonnet
This issue is particular to using the VVT engine, the timing gear added to the VVT sits ontop of the cam cover and prevents the bonnet from closing. You can either get a V8 bonnet or as I did fit a scoop to give the clearance needed.
This issue is particular to using the VVT engine, the timing gear added to the VVT sits ontop of the cam cover and prevents the bonnet from closing. You can either get a V8 bonnet or as I did fit a scoop to give the clearance needed.
Steering
The mk2 has an airbag in the steering wheel which must be removed. To get a non-airbag wheel fitted you will need a new steering boss and the clockspring behind the wheel will need moving back a few mm on it's mounts, it is a simple job that makes more sense when you are looking at it. If you remove the clockspring you will not get self cancelling from the indicators.
The mk2 has an airbag in the steering wheel which must be removed. To get a non-airbag wheel fitted you will need a new steering boss and the clockspring behind the wheel will need moving back a few mm on it's mounts, it is a simple job that makes more sense when you are looking at it. If you remove the clockspring you will not get self cancelling from the indicators.
Throttle Cable
The bracket on the manifold for the throttle cable is too high and puts strain on the cable itself. The solution is to make a small plate to lower the bracket slightly. It may be possible to source a longer cable for this as an alternative.
The bracket on the manifold for the throttle cable is too high and puts strain on the cable itself. The solution is to make a small plate to lower the bracket slightly. It may be possible to source a longer cable for this as an alternative.
Here's the bottom line, I had a great time building my car and although the list above looks bad they are small issues handled over the entire build. If I built another I wouldn't hesitate on getting a mk2 or mk2.5 donor. And remember my later VVT engine has 20 BHP more than the mk1 1.8
